Time Travel

In the early 20th century, Detroit was a tourist destination 鈥 a place to see and be seen. And there was no shortage of excursion companies so visitors could take in the sights of a city on the move // Images Courtesy of Richard Bak
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Images courtesy of Richard Bak

One hundred years ago, the most popular way of seeing Detroit was Seeing Detroit. A.C. Dietsche鈥檚 oversized Packards were ubiquitous. Whenever a carload of rubbernecking Elks, Masons, or Realtors rumbled past City Hall or the floral clock at Waterworks Park, odds were great that it belonged to the savvy, 眉ber-connected German-American entrepreneur. The attractive and comprehensive brochure that each Dietsche customer was given boasted that the company鈥檚 fleet of open-air vehicles were 鈥淭he Only Way to See Detroit,鈥 capable of providing between 20 and 35 passengers with 鈥渁 quick, restful, and inexpensive way of seeing Detroit and its famous Belle Isle Park, the most magnificent island park in this country, its beautiful river, grand boulevards, handsome residences, and great buildings.鈥 On all Dietsche tours, 鈥渃ompetent lecturers鈥 were on hand to 鈥減oint out and explain all points of interest.鈥

Detroit鈥檚 sightseeing heyday was the turn of the 20th century, when it sat proudly in the front rank of American cities and enjoyed a reputation as a very desirable tourist and convention destination. A variety of operators, large and small, sprang up to service the burgeoning trade in out-of-town day-trippers with regularly scheduled runs and special charters. The Metropolitan Sight Seeing Company conducted business from its main location inside the Oxford Hotel downtown. The Detroit Urban Railway promised that a ride on its special 鈥淵olanda鈥 electric streetcar would show a stranger the best of Detroit in two hours. B.J. Sturn offered the 鈥淔inest Sight Seeing Cars In Detroit鈥 from his Woodward location. On Aug. 26, 1910, one satisfied Sturn customer, a tourist from Cleveland, wrote her mother and sister on a postcard provided by the operator. 鈥淲e are now in Waterworks Park after having had an auto ride in this large car for 25 miles. It is sinfully grand. Wish you could both be here.鈥

However, for many years nobody cornered the market like A.C. Dietsche & Co. Rivals grumbled about the owner鈥檚 鈥渋n鈥 with the German aldermen and mayors who dominated local politics during this era. In 1915, Frank Wells complained that Seeing Detroit vehicles were allowed to idle all day and night in a prime location on Woodward near the Opera House, squeezing out competitors like him. 鈥淭wo of the cars stand there all the time; they don鈥檛 move at all,鈥 he told the city attorney. 鈥淥ne at the lower end catches the passengers walking up the avenue and the other at the upper end gets those strolling down.鈥 Once a car was loaded, Wells said, 鈥渢hey pull a third one up alongside and transfer the passengers across. It means we smaller fellows can鈥檛 get a stand in there because there isn鈥檛 enough room.鈥

Dietsche maintained the city鈥檚 best-stocked souvenir shop at the corner of Woodward and Larned. The store also served as a waiting room for Seeing Detroit鈥檚 scheduled hourly departures. Before or after their trip, tourists could pick up a pennant, ashtray, plate, glass, or some other Detroit-centric memento. Lapel buttons declaring 鈥淚n Detroit Life Is Worth Living鈥 (the city鈥檚 slogan was prominently spelled out in a floral display in Grand Circus Park) were popular. Out-of-towners eager to share their experiences in the City by the Strait could choose between hundreds of different mass-produced postcards. Or they could visit the adjacent Cornell Studios and pose behind a whimsically painted backdrop, such as a wheelbarrow or automobile, for a one-of-a-kind 鈥渞eal photo鈥 postcard to mail to a friend or stick in an album. Dietsche produced many of the commercial postcards he sold, including a set of the 1907 pennant-winning Tigers that today is highly prized among baseball-memorabilia collectors.

In an era when millions had yet to set foot inside a car, the excitement of taking in such sights as the Belle Isle Aquarium, Henry Ford鈥檚 Model T plant, the giant spruce log in Palmer Park, and the world鈥檚 largest stove on Jefferson was heightened by the novelty of doing so inside an automobile. For many Seeing Detroit customers, it was their first ride in a motorcar. For at least one, however, it was her last. 鈥淣o more autos for me,鈥 Myrtle Campbell of Duluth, Minn., declared one June afternoon in 1907, after the sightseeing car she and her family were riding in collided with a Third Avenue trolley. 鈥淚鈥檝e had enough of them. Somebody get a carriage to take us home.


Seeing Detroit Today

Here鈥檚 a sampling of guided Detroit tours for history-minded day-trippers to consider. In addition to regularly scheduled excursions, most offer private walking and bus tours.

SEE the past:

Preservation Detroit

Information: .

The organization, founded in 1975 as Preservation Wayne, is Detroit鈥檚 foremost architectural-preservation society. Its many activities include the award-winning Detroit Heritage tours, centered on such themes as bootlegging, skyscrapers, cemeteries, theaters, and the auto industry.


RIDE a bus:

McMillan Tours

Information: 313-922-1990, .

Longtime Indian Village resident Stewart McMillan has been enthusiastically conducting Detroit tours since 1968. His most popular bus excursions explore the homes of Detroit celebrities and the sites on the Underground Railroad.

TAKE a cruise:

Diamond Jack鈥檚 River Tours

Information: 313-843-9376, .

Experience the Detroit River as the early French settlers might have 鈥 that is, if their canoes had been converted island ferries with lounge chairs and drink specials. The two-hour narrated cruises launch from Rivard Plaza downtown and Wyandotte鈥檚 Bishop Park twice each afternoon, Thur.-Sun., all summer.


VIEW the city:

Detroit Tour Connections

Information: 313-283-4332, .

Bob Goldsmith is in his ninth year of organizing tours around skyscrapers, sports, and dozens of other topics. The expeditions, most led by Goldsmith, can take place on foot or via bus or People Mover.


Photograph by Cybelle Codish

RIDE a bike:

Wheelhouse Detroit

Information: 313-656-2453; .

Cyclists of all ability levels are welcome to join one of the $25 tours put on by this bicycle shop on the Riverwalk. (For bike rental, add $10.) The 16-to-30-mile excursions explore neighborhoods, graveyards, churches, and parks, with frequent stops.


TOUR a factory:

Piquette Avenue Plant

Information: 313-872-8759, .

The birthplace of Henry Ford鈥檚 Model T is a National Historic Landmark and the only early auto factory open to the public.


TAKE a walk:

Detroit Urban Adventures

Information: .

The local arm of Intrepid Urban Adventures offers a pair of two-hour walking tours of downtown. One focuses on the highlights while the other explores the city鈥檚 rise, decline, and ongoing revitalization.


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