Tasteful Settings

Ron Rea has designed some of metro Detroit鈥檚 best-known restaurants. But he says d茅cor takes a back seat to food and service
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Photograph by Marvin Shaouni

The name Ron Rea is almost synonymous with the Detroit dining scene. He鈥檚 been the designer behind many of Michigan鈥檚 most appealing restaurants, as well as some in places as far-flung as London, Madrid, and Australia (Melbourne and Sydney).

Rea, who studied architecture and industrial design at Lawrence Tech and fine art at Wayne State University, grew up in Allen Park and has lived in downtown Birmingham for 35 years with his wife, Anna, whom he married when he was 22.

For the past 10 years, he鈥檚 had a business partnership with registered architect Roman Bonislawski at the firm Ron & Roman, 鈥渁 cozy little studio with no conference room鈥 in Birmingham.

鈥淚t鈥檚 piled with books. It looks like a crazy person鈥檚 office. I love it,鈥 he says.
Rea and Bonislawski met when both were at JPRA Architects, working for 18 months on the Bay Harbor project in northern Michigan. Bonislawski is the computer-savvy half of the duo. Rea, who admits he never uses the computer, says, 鈥淚鈥檓 very happy sketching everything by hand.鈥

How did you get into the restaurant-design business?

I was 24 years old and I had never been exposed to restaurant design. My wife and I happened to have lunch in Ann Arbor at a place called Bicycle Jim鈥檚. I was aghast at how cool it was. I was knocked out. I had to find out who did it. It was Roger Sherman Associates, and I immediately applied for a job there.

Which local restaurants have you done?

So many. Beverly Hills Grill, Streetside Seafood, Elie鈥檚, 220, Coach Insignia, Andiamo in the Renaissance Center and Dearborn, and at least 12 of the Chuck Muer restaurants. One of my favorites is Common Grill in Chelsea. I like it because it works 鈥 a neat little storefront that fits like a glove in that community.

Which was the first?

Charley鈥檚 Crab in Troy, for Chuck Muer. I worked with Roger [Sherman] on that. He was the master, and I was the apprentice behind the scenes doing the drawings of the booths.

Have the trends changed since you started designing restaurants?

They have and they haven鈥檛. Everything old is new again. Nothing goes out of style; it鈥檚 just reinvented all the time. A new chair, a new barstool 鈥 it鈥檚 just like a woman changing a dress. It鈥檚 the same woman in a new dress. Still a restaurant, still a woman. Full circle.

Don鈥檛 some restaurants become outdated?

Yes. The classic example is The Hill [in Grosse Pointe Farms]. It has phenomenal bones, but it had a tattered dress. It was very easy to go in and make that place look better. Every restaurant needs a new dress, a pair of shoes, earrings, maybe a whole wardrobe.

What makes a d茅cor appetizing?

I think familiarity. Feeling familiar in your surroundings, when things are slightly out of place, not so perfect, a little homey, if you will, not perfectly orchestrated. Perfect is perfectly boring.

What makes people want to linger?

I think it鈥檚 the service, the waiter or waitress. Hospitality. We all give too much credence to d茅cor. It鈥檚 third on the list of food, service, and d茅cor. D茅cor gets you through the door the first time. But it won鈥檛 bring you back.

What brings people back?

It鈥檚 a mix of all of it, a friendly spirit that gets you back. Over-designed, over-thought, over-wrought, ill-at-ease places are one-time places.

How significant is noise abatement?

It鈥檚 truly important, much more than it ever was. With every job for the last 20 or 30, we tell them we鈥檒l come in at the end with things that abate the noise, if it鈥檚 needed. At first, at Beverly Hills Grill, people were walking out. It was too noisy. You learn a lesson, and from that point on, I did make a concerted effort. Lately, we鈥檙e using more carpeting, a little softer materials. Upholstered booths are amazing in abating sound. So are linens on the tables. And Sonex 鈥 it鈥檚 a brand of soundproofing they use in recording studios. It absorbs sound like crazy. It really works. Once it鈥檚 painted to match the ceiling, you don鈥檛 know it鈥檚 there.

What is your kitchen/dining room like at home?

It鈥檚 an old house. The cupboards are the same; they鈥檝e just been painted 14 times. My kitchen is small, minimal, not grand, not kitchen-like. If I put a sofa in there, it would look like a living room. No extravagant appliances. My wife, Anna, does phenomenal cooking out of there. You can cook on a hot plate if you know how to cook.

Where do you like to dine?

I love Streetside and carryout from Phoenicia. I love the Gallery Restaurant; its funky and nothing special, but they have something called a Golden Burger. I love it. If I could go to a place once a week, it would be The Rattlesnake. That food is undoubtedly the best food in town. It鈥檚 still the best experience in town for everything: service, food, setting, the very sophisticated art collection 鈥 it鈥檚 got it. I love the crowd there; it鈥檚 always diverse.

What鈥檚 on the drawing board?

We鈥檙e working on No. VI Chophouse. After 10 years, the place still looks great, but it鈥檚 moving to the Crowne Plaza across the street. It鈥檚 going to be tough; it鈥檚 oriented toward the Japanese businessmen that love the place. It will have a glass-enclosed bar, so they can eat and smoke.