Caught Red-Handed?

The wine world is no stranger to scandal, but this time, it鈥檚 a sparkling example of Champagne fraud.
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As people who follow the wine world know, fraud cases seem to pop up every few years 鈥 and most commonly they involve red wines.

In France, in the 1950s there was a scandal involving Burgundy鈥檚 Domaine Grivelet, where the wines were doctored with less noble pinot noir juice.

In Bordeaux, there was 鈥淲inegate,鈥 so named because it happened in 1973 during the Watergate scandal that embroiled President Richard Nixon. The house of Cruse, a family-run听 exporter of exclusive Bordeaux wine, saw its reputation tank when it was accused of cutting its wines with cheap juice from the Languedoc area of southern France.

Here at home, there was the California saga of Rudy Kurniawan, the fraudster who sold millions of dollars of fake high-end wines, got caught, and is now sitting in jail.

Kurniawan鈥檚 alleged victims, to whom a judge ordered him to pay $28 million in restitution, included billionaire Bill Koch, who with his brothers fund conservative causes. Among the gems Koch thought he had bought were a 1947 Petrus, a 1945 Vog眉茅 Musigny Cuv茅e Vieilles Vignes, and two bottles of 1934 Domaine de la Roman茅e-Conti. Koch sued and settled out of court for $3 million in damages.

Kurniawan tripped himself up when he bottled a magnum of Domaine Ponsot, a highly desirable Burgundy. The only problem was, Ponsot didn鈥檛 bottle the vintage that Kurniawan was trying to pass off. The scheme began to unravel when a Ponsot family member received an inquiry. The Kurniawan matter closed in late 2013 with a 10-year jail sentence.

Reuters news service recently reported another scandal, this one is in Italy, where Italian fiscal officials seized 9,000 bottles of fake Mo毛t & Chandon Champagne in a workshop near Padua, Italy.

The seizure, announced in February, also netted eight people charged by police with bottling inexpensive Italian sparkling wine, prosecco, and passing it off as real French Mo毛t & Chandon. The Champagne sells for about $40 a bottle, compared to prosecco at $5 to $10.

The tipoff for an eagle-eyed police officer was that the bottles lacked any serial numbers, which all real Champagnes must have. When police ran a lab test they found that the Mo毛t was indeed just local prosecco.

At the raided Padua business, Italian fiscal police also found a machine that wraps the bottles in Mo毛t & Chandon packaging, and 40,000 very good copies of Mo毛t & Chandon labels.

The street value of the seized fakes was estimated to be nearly $400,000.

鈥淲e think these bottles were destined for the markets of Northern Europe, such as Germany,鈥 Lt. Col. Luca Lettere of the Guardia di Finanza di Padova told a press conference.

There鈥檚 no indication that any of it has reached the Detroit area.

鈥淭he system was very detailed and specialized,鈥 Lettere said. 鈥淭hey chose Champagne because it can be sold for such a high profit.

鈥淏uying prosecco for one or two euros, they can put it on the market for 35 or 40 euros.鈥

A spokesperson at Mo毛t & Chandon told : 鈥淲e recognize the excellent work of the authorities who seize the counterfeit products and we do not hesitate to engage in prosecution.鈥

Italian police said the contraband Mo毛t & Chandon was donated by police to wine cooperatives in the Veneto area, where prosecco is made, to use in their wines.