Appetizer: The Oakland Art Novelty Company

A VINTAGE TOAST: Drinking in the retro atmosphere is half the pleasure at a new Ferndale watering hole that evokes the golden age of cocktails
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Photographs by Erik Howard

A new breed of cocktail lounge has been emerging across the country, one dedicated to the golden age of the classic cocktail 鈥 the fizzes, the toddies, and the slings of the 1920s and 鈥30s.

Libations are taken seriously at these new-old spots, where correct glassware is used to serve concoctions carefully composed with authentic ingredients, fresh juices, and infusions that revive vintage recipes. As Sandy Levine says, it鈥檚 about 鈥渂artenders applying as much attention to cocktails as chefs do to food.鈥

Levine, the former general manager of Birmingham鈥檚 Chen Chow Brasserie, is the man behind Ferndale鈥檚 appealing new watering hole in the former Nami Sushi Bar on West Nine Mile Road. Its name, The Oakland Art Novelty Company, recalls the 鈥淛oe-sent-me鈥 Prohibition era it鈥檚 meant to reflect. The Oakland was created in the mold of Levine鈥檚 favorite lounge in Chicago, where he and his wife lived briefly. The couple spent many evenings in the romanticized speakeasy setting of The Violet Hour on North Damen Avenue.

When they returned to their hometown of Detroit three years ago, it was with a plan in the back of their minds: to bring something reminiscent of The Violet Hour here.

鈥淚 contacted the guy who opened The Violet Hour and (jokingly) asked if he would open one in Detroit,鈥 says Levine, who also researched the subject, reading David Wondrich鈥檚 books Imbibe! and Punch, which are considered definitive volumes on vintage drinks.

鈥淗e said he鈥檇 be happy to work with me if I was serious, and we had several meetings over the phone,鈥 Levine says. 鈥淚n the few years that I鈥檝e been back in Detroit, he has achieved incredible success and now works with some major hotel chains, so he couldn鈥檛 dedicate the time and effort to open a bar here. He has been a sort of unofficial adviser to me in a lot of ways.鈥

The result is Ferndale鈥檚 new nightspot, done up with fancifully carved period bar stools, high-backed chairs, and antique-style sofas and chairs against a background of deep purple bathed in soft light from 10 glittering crystal chandeliers and candles that flicker inside little glass holders.

Small wooden whiskey barrels on the bar hold special drinks that are meant to age before being served. 鈥淚鈥檝e recently experimented with a variation of a Sazerac that I call On the Night You Were Born,鈥 Levine says. 鈥淚t contains rye whiskey, absinthe, and Pedro Xim茅nez. That will be the first cocktail we age in whiskey barrels.鈥

Sandy Levine, owner of The Oakland Art Novelty Company.

Other drinks on The Oakland bar menu include a margarita made with A帽ejo tequila and hickory-smoked ice, and a Manhattan that includes homemade maraschino cherries. 鈥淲e鈥檙e working on making ones that explode in your mouth, similar to the spherical olives made at El Bulli in Spain,鈥 he says.

The attention to detail is such that The Oakland makes its own bitters and fruit syrups and uses specially shaped 鈥渃oupe鈥 ice cubes to prevent excessive melting that interferes with the taste of such drinks as the Levines鈥 favorite, the Juliet and Romeo, a blend of gin, muddled mint and cucumber, and rosewater, which, of course, is on the list too.

For now, it鈥檚 cocktails-only, with some finger food to come later. The intimate room seats just 54, but a back patio will be added shortly. There, the theme will change to yet another revived theme from the past: the tiki bar.

The Oakland Art Novelty Company, 201 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-291-5295.

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