Sewing the Seeds

Establishing a garment district and promoting fashion industry skills could help fuel Detroit鈥檚 recovery
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In听the newly renovated second floor of the One Woodward skyscraper in downtown Detroit, a large crowd gathered in mid-October for FashionSpeak 鈥 a conference for the fashion industry put on by Detroit Garment Group Guild (DG3).

Five workshops centered on the business of fashion, and fashion designer Tracy Reese (above), who grew up in Detroit, headlined the event. Presenters emphasized the potential Detroit has to become a manufacturing mecca for the garment industry 鈥 which has been the cornerstone of DG3鈥檚 recent work.

DG3 has been working with the Detroit Economic Growth Corp. (DEGC) to find the best area for the multipurpose facility they want built by next fall.

鈥淭he dream is to grow from the DG3 multipurpose facility and allow a garment district to evolve organically,鈥 says DG3 President Karen Buscemi.

The new facility will have a designer incubator with office space for 12 designers, who will have access to all the top industrial machinery and cutters. It will also have DG3鈥檚 new headquarters, a shop to sell local designers鈥 work, and a space to hold workshops, Buscemi says.

Mark Denson, DEGC鈥檚 manager of business attraction, is guiding Buscemi and her team through the process.

鈥淭he garment industry is really one of many areas we are exploring to bring manufacturing back to Detroit,鈥 says Denson. 鈥淲hen people think about American made, they think about a few places. And Detroit is one of those 鈥 which is why several new companies in town have really built their own brands through the city鈥檚 revitalization.鈥

While there is still a lot of work to be done to establish an official garment district, Denson believes it can happen.

鈥淎bsolutely I think we can do it, but I think this is also part of a larger initiative about bringing specialized manufacturing, and manufacturing in general, back to the city,鈥 he says.

Reese supports the idea of a garment district and thinks it鈥檚 time for Detroit, but made a point to note that if the city wants to have its own garment district, it needs to appeal to the larger market, too.

鈥淭he lion鈥檚 share of design companies are based in New York or Los Angeles and then there are smaller companies that are in Philadelphia, and now Detroit,鈥 Reese says. 鈥淚 think Detroit would need to appeal to some of the fashion-based companies in New York and L.A., and say 鈥楬ey, we can manufacture here as well.鈥 You want to reach a national audience 鈥 appealing to larger companies that are based in big fashion capitals is an important part of that.鈥

It seems as though Detroit received a bit more notice from the fashion world in 2014. Michigan native John Varvatos, a men鈥檚 luxury fashion designer, announced he鈥檒l open a shop on Woodward Avenue in Detroit early next year. Over the summer, famed fashion photographer Bruce Weber, Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, and a number of other fashion editors flew into town from New York to visit the Detroit Institute of Arts for the launch of Weber鈥檚 exhibit featuring images he took in the city.

And the leader of the pack, Shinola 鈥 which has identified itself strongly as Detroit鈥檚 鈥渋t鈥 brand for watches, leather goods, and bikes 鈥 opened up a shop called Willys Detroit, featuring other American-made brands.

Shinola also partnered with the College for Creative Studies to launch a new fashion accessories design program next fall.

鈥淭wo years ago if you would鈥檝e told me all this was going to happen, I would鈥檝e said, 鈥榥o way,鈥欌夆 says Mark D鈥橝ndreta, DG3 vice president and the president of TD Industrial Coverings, a company that designs, manufactures, and sells custom-sewn products and apparel.

DG3 conducted a survey to find out more about the state鈥檚 demand for industrial sewers and discovered there are more than 300 vacant positions available, D鈥橝ndreta says.

And the potential jobs are not all in high-end fashion. There are numerous opportunities in industries such as automotive and furniture.

鈥淚n my business, we鈥檝e got over 10 positions open right now that we can鈥檛 fill,鈥 D鈥橝ndreta says. 鈥淭here aren鈥檛 enough skilled sewers.鈥

DG3 and The Makers Coalition are doing something about that. The Detroit chapter of the coalition includes DG3, Henry Ford College Michigan Technical Education Center, the Southeast Michigan Community Alliance (SEMCA Michigan Works!), Lear Corp., and other local employers.

In October they launched Michigan鈥檚 first industrial sewing certificate program, working closely with Michigan Works! to target the unemployed or underemployed. Once students complete the program they can earn between $10-$16 per hour.

鈥淲e鈥檝e lost the idea that learning a trade, building, and working with your hands鈥夆︹塼hat you can make a living and you can have a great career,鈥 D鈥橝ndreta says. 鈥淲e can鈥檛 [forget] that skilled trades are important, and in order to bring manufacturing to Detroit, especially in the cut and sew industry, we need a skilled workforce.鈥